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    Posted: 02 November 2016 at 6:59pm
I managed to pick up not one, but two Dino King cabs! Not really intentional.. the first I was offered after I'd missed about 3 member's cabs that were put on sale in a row, and the 2nd one popped up on gumtree so I fully leapt on it!



The first one was fairly well butchered I'd say. A mass of wires all over the inside, and no CP, controls or locks when I got it. The cab had been left in a garden shed probably for at least a year, and hasn't been powered on yet.
Previously it had been made into a Mr Driller cab, but since then all the useful goodies had been taken, and the artwork scraped and peeled off. Quite a few scrapes, marks and dents to deal with.
So other than a quick clean to get rid of the muck and remove some old sticker adhesive, this one is awaiting full 'refurb'. Pondered complete strip-out and respray on it.



In stark contrast the 2nd one is in much better nick. Still has the original Dino King outer artwork and a 1P6B CP in matching jaffa orange plexi. Some darker yellowing on the plastic parts, and a few scrapes to the plastic monitor cover here and there. But it powers on, and the jamma side of things is working with very neat wiring, just it's been wired to 4 buttons, freeplay and all the coindoor stuff disabled. Looks like the main lock has been twisted too, so that'll need dealing with.
And gawd the security bar gets in the way all the time!


So I started trying to work out if I could squeeze a custom 2 player CP layout onto a teeny Dino King cab, which will be set up with a JPAC. While it will get mostly single player use, it would be nice to have the option for some multiplayer fun on it when folk come round.

I quickly sketched out a rough layout using 24mm buttons rather than 30mm's, as I figured I'd need every mm I could get. I was right... player 2 gets a bum deal, as I could only fit on 4 buttons.



So am I totally nuts in trying to fit more than 4 buttons onto a 2 player CP in such a small space?
Obviously I've seen 2 player with 4 buttons each, which fits fine.
Despite it looking a bit odd, at least I could play 6 button fighters in single player mode, as well as having the 2 player option for games up to 4 buttons. Sadly just means 2 player fighters are not an option on the mini-cab.

Also as an aside, for the start etc.. buttons at the top, does anyone know where to get buttons smaller than 24mm? While there is some room up top there, smaller buttons may just look a load less cluttered.



 


Edited by Flinnster - 30 November 2016 at 2:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monstermug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 November 2016 at 7:05pm
I would personally use smaller start buttons (maybe only 2 rather than 4).  Also wouldn't mounting the joystick a little lower give more room to shift everything left a bit? If not then perhaps use smaller buttons throughout making the spaces between them a little closer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 November 2016 at 7:17pm
Yeah the buttons are just images from google, I haven't committed to buying any just yet Wink
Ultimately I'm not going to know how close I can get 24mm buttons to eachother until I have some actual buttons to screw in and see.
Definitely after smaller start buttons if I can get hold of them. 20mm or something would be great.
(Purist's look away now.. 4 buttons were for 1p start, pause (yeah - to deal with being interrupted all the time!), exit/menu (for mame frontend), and 2p start).

The joysticks are also not the ones being used, I'll be getting some Sanwa 8Y sticks with no large metal mounting plate for this. But I was just playing with the feel of them, making sure my knuckle didn't touch the left plastic panel when moving left and so on.

For moving the joysticks down, maybe it's possible. I guess moving sticks down I'd lose a bit of rest space for the wrist/hand but they'd then be clearer from that annoying side panel.
I don't think I can move the 1P joystick any further over to left sadly due to the moulded edge support for the CP sticking out around the plastic side panel. I guess again, until I have a Sanwa under the CP I won't know exactly how many mm I can get away with there. Potentially I could file off the corner there as there's no support screws in that exact area... could be an option!

It's er.. tricky :)

The original collection-grime/dirt before being cleaned up nicely shows the overlap on the CP and the support stuff underneath:



 


Edited by Flinnster - 02 November 2016 at 7:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2016 at 8:40am
It's your cab so do whatever works for you Smile

I made several panels for mine, I used AMP UP connectors so it's just a case of removing the screws and swapping out the panel, a couple of minutes, job done and the possibilities are endless.

I think due to the cabinet size they just aren't really suitable for two adults side by side but perfect for solo play. Am I right that you have two of these cabs? if you do have two then I'd go the Vs route it works really well.

30mm buttons are better for man sized fingers too.

Also you might want to check out some button layouts on slagcoin http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html

Good luck and I'd love to see what you end up doing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2016 at 11:24am
Too tight for me, Get another dino cab do them both 1 player 6 button, stick them back to back and link them up vs city style

Edited by strykr - 03 November 2016 at 11:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 2:31am
Thanks for the replies guys :) I am of course totally thinking aloud on it all! (and I have those slagcoin button layouts bookmarked yep!)

Respect your experience, and thx Paulie for being a general font-of-all-knowledge-on-all-things-dino-king! Tongue All my other arcade sticks and CP's are 30mm buttons, so I hear ya on the smaller ones.
I also tried sitting shoulder to shoulder tonight and yep.. 2 adults round a dino king is a bit cosy isn't it!

Great idea on the chunky astro cab style connectors, they'd fit in the metal plate at the back there just fine. And yeah, knocking up a couple of different panels solves a lot of my issues actually - just need to work out the costs of cutting the metal + plexi accurately.
I did manage to find some smaller 20mm buttons for the start stuff at the top of the CP - Sanwa SDM-20's.. if I still want to minimise those.

I do have 2 cabs yeah, and the link up idea has been discussed before - I didn't realise anyone had actually done it before though!
Some head scratching about getting dual VGA signals sent out down a cable and also powering parts of both cabs from a single switching supply. Currently they are both pretty standard Jamma loom setups - I've tried not to butcher things too much.

Plans? Well.. the original idea was to have one horizontal and one vertical monitor orientation (obviously if do a vs link, that might scupper that idea!).

Then for looks, I was going to kinda go for a minature version of this, so custom artwork for 'Sega Blast Mini' and 'Sega Astro Mini'


The side of the Dino Kings can accomodate the Astro / Blast side art quite well, and the CP's...




I bet you wish you never asked ;)



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tronads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 3:07pm
Those cardboard cutouts look familiar, I would have discussed mine with you on here rather than facebook if I had seen this first :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote FrancoB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 3:29pm
I think four 30mm buttons per player is the max you can get on a two player panel. Here's a few models I did when designing mine. Click the image for a larger pic.


I went for the 2L6B version in the end. The only two player four button game I would want to play on them is the D&D but I could always do that on two linked cabs with 1L6B panels.

I've got the CAD files for those if you need them. If you're after a 1L6B panel I've got an old steel one that I got prior to getting mine made. You can have for free or for a small charity donation if you like.

The control panels just use easily obtainable JST YL connectors, I would use those for swapping panels, that's what I'm intending to use in mine. Let me know if you need part numbers etc.

I look forward to seeing what you do with yours, keep it up Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 4:43pm
Franco hello :)
I wish I was around when you were organising the group buy on these! :)
(Also ... off topic, but do you still have your vertical monitor Dino King mod?)

A massive 'YES PLEASE' on that steel panel - why didn't you use it in the end? Was it just a prototype? It will be useful regardless I'm sure, so yep - happy to do the donation thing :)

Any info gratefully received and chomped up on what you guys are using ;)

I think I'm settling on Paulie's suggestion of making 2 panels. First is something like you have at the bottom right, 2L8B? Neo Geo style anyway, I think Brettster had one set up like this, I consider that step 1, given my other cab is 1L6B, but just plastic - so I'll get 2x separate cabs, one two player, one single player.

Then step 2 would be to make up another 1L6B panel, ready for attempting the vs link on the two cabs, cables probably sneaking out of the lock holes in the rear doors :)


Edited by Flinnster - 04 November 2016 at 4:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 4:45pm
Originally posted by Tronads Tronads wrote:

Those cardboard cutouts look familiar, I would have discussed mine with you on here rather than facebook if I had seen this first :-)


It's all timing isn't it! I know one other currently who has a Dino with a central joystick and 2 buttons and is looking to get a 6 button panel made up, so we're not exactly in group buy territory just yet :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote paulie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2016 at 8:32pm
As FrancoB pointed out go for JST YL connectors, DK cabs use JST YL and JST VL connectors. VL are the bigger of the two connectors that you will see in your cab.

You'll need JST YL connectors for several other parts of the conversion anyways so just order the lot in one go. I used AMP UP connectors only for the control panel quick disconnects, I had tons of them in my spares box from previous projects so it made sense for me to use them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 November 2016 at 2:43am
Some more messing with CP plans this evening .... from some modified CAD files, mocked up in Photoshop. 30mm buttons this time, with 24mm start buttons, and the small 20mm buttons for the game select stuff.




Edited by Flinnster - 11 November 2016 at 2:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tronads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2016 at 9:39am
I'd lose the 30mm buttons at the top and use the 24mm's as the 1p and 2p starts, and use the Jpac combo buttons for the game select/menu stuff, ie pressing them together to get escape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2016 at 11:15am
The 1p & 2ps starts are 24mm on that plan above yeah.
One of the utility buttons was for 'p' actually - pause. I'm not sure if there is a JPAC combo for that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote zipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2016 at 9:03pm
By default... Shift key (p1 start) + p1 down = p (pause).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 November 2016 at 10:43pm
Cool, this I did not know :) Will try it out ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 November 2016 at 1:13am
This evening I drilled the coin box lock out on DinoNum2. I had tried to keep the original Sega lock and get a new key, but no joy. So out it came, thankfully quite cleanly so I was able to keep the lock tang at least for use with a replacement.
Unfortunately I've not managed to remove the 3 bolts inside the coin box area that hold the security bar hinge in place, because my box spanner is too long to get in there. Queue searching online for smaller bolt tools .. Ouch

Before and after...


So for now I have a dino cab where the front door is held in place with a spare shoelace!
After that abject failure, I quickly wired up p1 buttons 5 & 6 and had a couple of games of Street Fighter III.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2016 at 9:02pm
No pics as it's fairly boring, but my replacement locks arrived today, so I got out the hacksaw and modified the tangs to fit into the Dino cabs. Both done, so no more swinging open doors when they are moved :)
Just waiting on the new bolt wrench now.. then I'll be removing that darn security bar!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2016 at 11:34pm
So today my smaller bolt tool arrived, a Y-box wrench. This evening I went into the coin box area to remove the last 3 bolts of the security bar. 1 & 2 came out easy, but the third wasn't going anywhere. After a bit of swearing and sticking my head in with a torch, I realised the bolt length was long enough to stop the wrench head from even getting close to the nut itself.

Cue more expletives... I then realised screwfix was open till 8pm. A quick google and a drive, and I came home with a set of box spanners:



And... thankfully the 10mm one fit in the coin box. So off I started again.

And boy......was that last bolt tough to get out! Turns out it was pretty much glued into place with a load of red loctite style adhesive! It had even been squidged out onto the exterior cab metalwork underneath the triangular mounting plate for the security bar.
Thankfully it cleaned off pretty well, so finally I have access to the coin box, new locks sorted, and no security bar getting in the way and making dents in nearby walls and doors!
Valuation on a spare security bar for a Dino King if anyone wants one? LOL



Really happy it's gone, I think the cab looks a ton better without it!



So.. next step, bringing that coin door to life :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flinnster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 November 2016 at 2:01am
OK, this is what I'm looking at inside the front door. Worth saying I have zero experience of wiring coin mechanisms, so this all new to me!

The single coin entry has an Excel credit board with v2.2 ROM and that's ribbon wired to an SR3 coin mech.
Helpfully all 12V by the looks of things.  Found the Excel board pin labels, so I can tell what's being wired up (not quite as I expected though).
Bunch of wires going from the 12V entry lamp, credit board and 2 jumper type connectors (maybe legacy from card reader type stuff?) into a big bunched up cable tidy, that ends in a JST YL style 8-pin connector plug.... that's connected to .... nothing.
Also there's a coin microswitch at the bottom of the coin mech housing area, that looks like it's been in hibernation forever.



The coin meters under the coin box are interesting. One is 5V, the other is 12V. One has a 4 pin JST YL connector, and the other has 4 wires connected to a 6 pin JST YL connector. Both connectors are left hanging with nothing to plug into .... I have much learning to do :)



Time to trace the wires a bit... I unravelled the cable tidy and started digging....
Despite the Excel board having pins for the 'entry lamp', the bulb is wired directly into the 12V & ground pins on the big JST connector so it's not talking to the credit board. I assume if it was talking to the credit board, then it might have the ability to flash the coin slot lamp and so on? Or does the credit board only handle coinage -> credit information.

The two pink wires with jumper style connectors at the end just go straight to the big JST connector, no connection to the credit board or coin mech.

On the credit board, there are 2x 12V yellow wires connected, ground / 0V, one labelled 'Meter' and another labelled '0/P1' which I assume is the input to the game & would connect to Jamma pin 16 for the 'coin A switch' to add a credit?



To bring the credit board, coin mech and bulb to life, can I simply connect up the 12V + 0V/ground pins on the large 8 pin JST connector to suitable +12 and ground pins on the Jamma connector? Or would connecting directly to the switcher be more the 'done thing'?

For the coin meters, it would be a bit of fun to get going. The manual seems to hint at the Dino King only having a single 5v counter.. but if the Excel board is 12V.. might explain why a 2nd coin meter was added that's not shown in the manual?
I suspect the credit board, SR3 mech and 2nd coin meter might be an addition for a UK machine, to deal with our coinage etc.. which is why the manual doesn't have it detailed in the 'factory' layout.

Any help appreciated!

Edited by Flinnster - 24 November 2016 at 2:41am
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